Double B Dirt Worx
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|Posted on January 23, 2012 at 9:54 PM||comments (10)|
I may never recieve any prizes for my literary skills, I just try and explain the methods and processes used in a way that the average joe can understand!!
We just wrapped up a 3.4 acres pipe yard for JC Inspections in Porter Tx and I would like to explain and discuss some of the steps and techniques used in the construction of the site.
The first step site to clear and grub the entire 3.4 acres and haul off the trees brush and stumps and grub the entire site with the rake attached to the front of the dozer blade. This removes and roots or stumps and any other organic matter left behind.
Once this is completed the entire site was stripped 4 to 6 inches to remove any and all organic matter left behind from the clearing and grubbing.
This completed the engineer had a topographical survey done on the entire site in order to design the initial grading plan since we were to be tying into an existing 8 inches of crushed concrete base and drainage inlets. Once the initial grade cuts and fills were established with grade stakes we used a dozer to grade the entire sight to meet the specs of the grading plan.
This phase is for the drainage type -A inlets. The developer of the complex allowed detention for all property owners. We had to saw cut a 8 ft wide access in the bend of the ditch leading to the detention area. Once this was completed we cut the ditch approximately 8 inches below grade and backfilled with six inches of cement stabilized sand allowing the extra two inches for the thickness of the pipe to achieve the proper flow line. We used for this project 24" and 18" hdpe pipe. The pipe was set to the proper grades to the first area calling for a 30x30x48 type-a box and grate, which then to carry on through the box we went down to an 18" hdpe pipe size to the second type inlet box also bedded in with stabilized sand 90 degrees out of this box we went the last 130 ft and put the last box in to he proper grades. all pipe once checked and centered in the ditch was covered up to about 4 inches over the top with the stabilized sand and compacted with a plate compactor.
The next phase is stabilization, in this case a lime slurry was called for at a rate of 200 tons for the entire sight 10 to 12 inches deep. We used a Caterpillar mixer to achieve this as we had to mix and level off and apply the slurry several times over the entire area to achieve a uniform and consistent mix. This being completes we used a smooth drum 84" vibratory compactor to compact the sight to a minimum of 95% compaction as tested by a soils technician.
We then regraded the entire site back to grade using two dozers and compacting as it was regraded. ( you can almost never compact any soil or rock or any material too much when great weights will be driven on it after completion) once the regrading was complete we staked the sight for 9" of rock one section at a time and started laying down the rock using a 650 lgp John Deere dozer. The extra inch is to allow for compaction with a finished grade of approximately 8". We put down approximately 6000 tons of crushed concrete over the entire job roughly 350 12 yd 17 to 18 ton truck loads. Thats a whole lot of rock!!!
Once the entire sight was covered with and compacted the flow lines were checked and graded as needed to ensure proper drainage to the inlets we had earlier installed.
This is how we carried out the project and I am sure as with anything there will be differing opinions. At the end of the day the customer received a great product properly constructed which will last them many years to come with proper maintenance.
|Posted on December 6, 2011 at 2:44 AM||comments (0)|
Well I wanted to discuss some types of stabilizing today.
We are doing a three acre lay down yard for JC Inspections in Porter and will be doing stabilizing late this week and into next week in preparation for eight inches of crushed concrete.
There are many types of stabilizing materials Lime, fly ash, carbide, these can be either in dry form or a slurry depending on your desired method of application or needs. once this is determined you can use a mixer much like a overgrown garden tiller to mix the lime in with the soil to the needed depth and compact for the 24 to 48 hour cure time then perform the mixing again for the final time compacting and then allowing the desired finish grade to be achieved for your project. this is just a small amount of information on this subject. There are numerous articles and web sites that can be used for more in depth information.
Now for the weekend do it yourselfer you can use simple tools and materials from your local hardware store to achieve soil stabilization for your small home and ranch projects. If you have a road or drive way that never firms up and just eats your gravel or rock, you can use a farm tractor with a rotary tiller and calcified lime or Portland cement spread over the affected area and tilled in and the tractor can be used to pack the area back down afterwards allowing you to regrade and re rock or pave your drive way or road.
These products typically come in 100lb bags and one bag will generally cover about 100sq ft 4 to 6 inches deep. If you use portland cement make sure the grade you set is the grade you want, after all it is cement and will set up as so. You will want to wear some type of dust mask and a long sleeve shirt and pants these products can and will cause irritaion on the skin and or eyes or airways and are not good for your health. Please use sound judgement when using these products.
|Posted on June 2, 2011 at 9:27 PM||comments (2)|
Well these past few months have been busy, my wife is pregnant and were having a boy in September. I just wanted to touch on a few tips and pointers for pond construction today.
When digging your pond you should select a naturally low area that can help with natural drainage to your new pond, when you start digging you need to take the first few feet or however much natural topsoil you have on the location of the pond and set it aside for dressing the area around the pond after the excavation is complete.
When you do get that out of the way and you get to the clay you should determine if it will be adequate to seal your pond. There are many methods everyone has an opinion, I personally take a hand full and ball it up tight and see how much of a ribbon it will make when pushed out between your thumb and index finger. If you get a two or so inch ribbon before it breaks off and falls to the ground, you should be ok if you line your pond with the clay you have on site.
When you have your pond excavated to your desired shape and or depth do leave at least 12 inches of undercut to allow for the clay to be spread and walked in or compacted how ever your prefer and feel comfortable with at least 2 feet above the desired water level tapering off into the natural ground. When this is done you can take into consideration the area for your over flow and use a spillway design or an over flow pipe depending on your preference and budget or needs.
When you choose the overflow you should make all swales and available drainage able to flow into the pond or away depending on preferences. When this is complete you can the take the top soil and spread it at 4 to 6 inches depths depending on how much you have and your are ready to seed sod or sprig which I recommend at least one of the methods to ensure and slow erosion and silt and sediment build up into your new pond.
If the pond is desired for fishing you can have logs, stumps, concrete pipes and many other things to give your new pond a good habitat for the fish. Also leaving shelfs and or shallow area 5 or so feet in depth below the water level also will give the fish a spawning area so you have a healthy eco-fishery for many years to come. A fountain or aerator will also help your fish grow faster and be hearty and healthy. These are all opinions I have from my many years of pond excavation and as stated everyone has their preferred methods. If you hire me to excavate a pond please don't insult my 25 years of knowledge by becoming a Google pond expert overnight. I am as honest as they come and will not lie to you about your pond or any matter that may arise.
|Posted on February 11, 2011 at 10:02 AM||comments (25)|
Its been awhile, I have been extremely busy in Kurten Tx. I want to explain some methods and ways to construct a House or Mobile Home pad today. There are many ways to do this and the below are a few methods I employ in doing a house or mobile home,shop pad etc. These are my opinions and I suggest anyone to do your own research and seek advice or ask questions when undertaking this or any other project of dirt work.
When Constructing a pad for a home first you need to determine where the pad will be placed and be sure that it is fairly level, once this is accomplished you will need to strip the area 4 to 6 inches. ( sometimes a foot or more may be neccesary to achieve optimum results) slightly larger than the intended pad size of all organic,wet or muddy soil to give yourself the best possible footing for the pad. The equipment used to spread the fill can vary from a small bulldozer to a tractor with a box blade or even a skid steer loader depending on your budget ,equipment available and also the number of loads of fill your are planning on bringing in to do your house or mobile home pad.
I suggest using a 80% clay and 20% sand mixture for your pad. There are many methods of compaction and the best by far is using a vibratory compactor and putting the fill in 6 to 8 inch lifts depending on the finished sub grade of the pad. If you are on a budget you can use the dump trucks for compaction as a pneumatic tired vehicle that is loaded with dirt will provide more than enough compaction for the pad if done in a consistent manner. Also when doing a House,mobile home or building pad customers may have a desire to have the fill dirt tested and have a lab technician present to check the compaction and moisture content of each lift, this may be neccesary to satisfy property owner,lender or Bank needs for warranty or insurance needs. The fill material will have to be sampled and tested in a lab prior to starting the work.
The average number of loads of fill dirt for a home or mobile home pad or shop will vary depending on the square footage or foot print that you are planning on having. The average home is about 2500 square feet and will average 30 to 40 loads of fill dirt with and average heigth of about 2 feet, while a mobile home pad will be less at about 1000 square feet and averages about 5 to 10 loads of fill dirt at an average height of 6 inches.
If you are doing a pad for a small building or shop or patio etc you can also use a farm tractor and box blade to spread the material using the tires on the farm tractor to achieve compaction. Although a bulldozer may weigh thousands of pounds more than a farm tractor or skid steer loader, the steel tracks and length of the track frame, width of track pads are designed to give the machine a low impact foot print using a dozer with LGP undercarriage puts very Low Ground Pressure as the machine travels over ground. This will not provide adequate compaction for a house or mobile home pad. Any pneumatic tired equipment,i.e. loaded dump truck, farm tractor,skid steer loader, even a pick up truck will provide better compaction than a steel tracked machine. The moisture content of the soil will determine how well or quickly compaction will be achieved,if the soil is to dry compaction usually will not be able to be achieved while if the fill dirt is to wet the same will be true. This is my opinion and I do again suggest asking or seeking as much advice as possible before attempting any project which not familiar with its methods or processes.
|Posted on January 16, 2011 at 3:05 PM||comments (0)|
Well Its the New Year and its off to a good start! This particular entry I will be explaining the methods and levels of Land Clearing in comparison to basic Underbrushing.
Land Clearing is the complete and or selective clearing of a piece of property for recreational,Agricultural or commercial use depending on the property owners desired end use.
Generally Land clearing is done with a bulldozer or excavator the size or number of pieces of equipment use will depend on the size of the property being cleared. When doing so often the land owner or contractor will select mature hardwoods or any tree visually appealing to be left at intervals in order to provide shade for animals or people or to add appeal to the property being cleared. When the trees and brush is removed the next step is to use a dozer blade mounted root rake to grub as many as possible roots and debris left over from the trees removed.
This is done so the land can be leveled properly in preparation of construction or grass seeding or planting. In some cases the trees and debris maybe be burnt, some soft woods , such as pine and hardwoods such as Oak may hauled away for timber products to be used in various manners depending on the size or quality of the logs that are harvested.
There are many different methods and all have their pros and cons and will vary depending on location and requirements for the end of use of the property being cleared. When seeking a land clearing contractor one can never ask too many questions from several different sources.
|Posted on December 19, 2010 at 7:43 PM||comments (0)|
Well it's getting closer to Christmas everyday, hope everyone's ready for next weekend. We are going to be busy the last weeks of the year and looks like the first month of the New year.
I am going to start explaining some of the terms and methods used in our business to help people gain a better understanding of how things are done.
This week I will explain Underbrushing. When you do underbrushing, it is the removal of all small trees bushes and brush usually up to about 6" or customer requirements.
Underbrushing is generally done with a small or large dozer or excavator. When done properly, this entry level clearing can help the property owner to pick out areas for future pasture areas by allowing access to previously unreachable property. This area can now be used for livestock pasture and/or hay being that sunlight reaches the ground and allows for grasses to grow.
The small trees and brush removed is generally piled up as free of dirt as possible to allow for burning or haul off depending on what's allowed or desired by the customer.
There are alternative methods to underbrushing such as hydro-axing with a skid steer with a mulching head attachment. While this method is usually quicker and leaves no piles to burn or dispose of, you do have the chips that take a few years to rot, and you still have the stumps from every tree or bush that was mulched to contend with if not done properly. I do not offer this method among my services. I have seen this done over the years and while from a distance it looks great, in my personal opinion upon close-up inspection leaves alot to be desired.
Thanks to all my customers these past two years, I hope to meet and make alot of new friends in 2011.